How to assemble the 3DS LL Nisetoro Capture!

Assembly instructions for the 3DS-LL Nisetoro Capture (LL-SPA3)

This is how to install the capture card (LL-SPA3) on a 3DS LL.

The soldering difficulty is not so high, but disassembling the game console and processing the case are quite difficult. If you are new to soldering work, please work by following experienced workers’ advice.
We provide assembling and repair services, so please contact us if you need to, (http://www.3dsvideocapture.com/).

<Attention>
- We are not responsible for any damage to your 3DS-LL or LL-SPA3.
- Changing or remodeling your game console voids your warranty.
- Depending on the motherboard lot or the game console revision, this procedure may not work. (As of January 8th, 2014, we haven’t confirmed all lots and revisions.)

<Revision history>
- Completely renewed from the old procedure (07/01/2013 revision)

<Things included in kits>
- 3DS-LL Capture Board (Flexible cable is attached)
- 0.3mm Industrial use lead-free solder (30cm)
- Insulating tape for a Circle Pad Pro (black)
- Cables for USB wiring (USB connector is separate)
<Tools you will definitely need>
- Soldering iron (around 30W. I recommend one with attemperation over 70W)
- Tweezers (I recommend “TS-15” from goot. It’s cheap and it’s easy to work with because the tip is curved.)
- Precision screwdriver
- Flux

<Difference between separate and combined USB connector>
The combined USB connector type is placed in the same spot as the USB connector of the IR port on the 3DS LL main unit.
The merit of the combined USB type is that you don’t need to install the USB connector, and the USB cable is plugged from the backside of the 3DS LL so it won’t bother game operation. But The demerit is that because the IR module is taken out, other peripheral devices such as the Circle Pad Pro cannot be connected.
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Meanwhile, for the separate USB connector type, the USB connector is attached on the front of the 3DS LL.
Since the IR module is not taken out, this type still lets you use other peripheral devices such as the Circle Pad Pro. However, the demerit is that you need to process the chassis in order to install the USB connector, and because the USB cable is in the front, game operability may be sacrificed a little.
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On the separate USB connector type (right on the image), the USB connector is cut out from the combined USB connector board.
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<Take out the mainboard of the LL>
Take out the mainboard of the LL. Disassemble it with a phillips-head precision screwdriver.
The screws are behind the rubber feet.
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The Circle Pad Pro and the liquid crystal display are connected to the main board using a flexible cable. Remove the flexible cable by popping up the pins of the connector and taking out the cable.
This connector type is
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like this after taking it out.
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When you pop up the pins, be careful not to put too much pressure on it. For these types of pins, tip up lightly using the tip of tweezers.

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Pop up the pins of the connector with the tip of your nail for this type.
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The picture is hard to see, though, the white pins are up.
Even though it’s hard to see in this picture, the white pins are up
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There are eight flexible connectors. Disconnect the Wi-Fi module that connects to the antenna wire on the top left in the picture. If you’re going to use the combined USB connector, disconnect the IR module as well.

<Process Slidepad>
There are two types of slidepad for the 3DS LL.
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The left one is used for the old 3DS LL, and the right one is for the new LL, 3DS, and Circle Pad Pro.
The new slidepad (short slidepad) is characterized by its short length and four clips.

(The following process is not necessary if you are using the old slidepad on the left of the picture)

The old slidepad is far more easy to mod. So if you have a regular 3DS or the extended slidepad for the 3DS, it’s a better choice to exchange it to a short slidepad that is taken out of a 3DS LL. If you want an old slidpad, please send us a message (moc.liamg|tceridytikustak#moc.liamg|tceridytikustak).

The short slidepad not only has a short flexible cable, but the part shown in the picture below is a little higher, too, compared with the old slidepad. Therefore, if you force the installation, it could damage the operability of the slidepad.
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And so, we should cut the white plastic part in the picture.

First, cut the triangle part (the circle in the picture) using a cutter knife. You must not put any pressure on the flexible cable or any other boards that are attached to the flexible cable with clips. They are very fragile and could become disconnected, after which they can’t be used.
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Score the base of the white plastic board five or six times with a cutter knife. Please be careful not to completely cut it because the board under the white plastic could be damaged.

Next bend up the arrowed part so that it doesn’t touch the flexible cable and the slidepad board like in the picture.
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The goal is to remove the white part like in this in the picture.
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If you have an ohmmeter, please measure the resistance between the top terminal and the rest of the terminals. If the value is a few dozens ohms, it’s good.
(In case you can’t get a signal from the clips, please measure the resistance from the metallic part on the tip of the flexible cable.)

Lightly bend the tip of the flexible cable like the picture. The bending position is a joint seam between a reinforcing plate and the flexible cable. Do not bend the reinforcing plate itself. If you do this, you could disconnect a cable.
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Acetate insulating tape is provided.
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Put the insulating tape on the metallic part of the terminal.
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<Solder LL-SPA 3>
Now, we will solder the flexible cable. The LL-SPA board is installed by folding the LL-SPA on top of the part of the flexible cable you solder. Therefore, when you solder the flexible cable, you need to place the LL-SPA board under the LL board like this picture.
If you do not solder it in this position, the installation will fail and you cannot redo it.
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Place the flexible cable so the holes in the cable align with the TP points on the board like the picture, and fix the flexible cable and the LL board with scotch tape so you don’t lose the alignment.
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Place the narrow and bending part of the flexible cable aligned with the TP points and fix it with scotch tape, too.
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Solder the flexible cable to the TP points using the 0.3mm extra thin thread solder provided. It doesn’t take much solder to do it.
Tip: Put the tip of your soldering iron over the metallic part for a second or so, then provide the thin thread solder.

If the flexible cable floats over the LL board, extra solder will be used and it could cause a soldering failure. So solder it carefully and press the flexible cable so there isn’t any room between the flexible cable and the LL board.

The soldered parts should be small, round, and smooth. If a spike comes up, put the tip of the solder over it to make it round. If you leave a spike, it could touch the chassis of the liquid crystal panel and cause a color distortion in the display.
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<Insulation of the board>
The backside of the LL-SPA3 board and the LL main board are designed not to touch each other. The high parts of the board, circled in red in the picture, are supported.
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However, if a different lot of the LL board has different parts than normal, it could short out. So when you install the LL-SPA board, check to see if the two boards would touch each other. If they would, fix it with insulating tape or something similar.

(The separate USB connector comes with some acetate tape on it when shipped, please do not peel off the tape.)

Please use an insulating tape like on the right (around 700 yen) or a kapton tape like on the left in the picture (around 2,000 yen). If you don’t have any, you can still use vinyl tape or scotch tape, but we don’t recommend it.
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<Slidepad Installation>
The connector used to install the slidepad’s flexible cable is placed under the LL-SPA3 board.
The new slidepad is shorten, so it is more difficult to install. Therefore, before installing the LL board into the chassis, install the slidepad.
(If it’s the old type of flexible cable with a long slidepad, it’s fine to install the slidepad after installing the LL board in the chassis.)

First off, put the flexible cable of the slidepad through a hole on the LL-SPA3, and take it out the backside of the LL-SPA3 board. Please take out the IR module beforehand.
To keep the part of the slidepad’s flexible cable on the backside of the LL-SPA3 board in place while installing, fix the whole slidepad temporarily with some scotch tape like in the picture.
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The slidepad still wobbles at this point, fix the other side temporarily with scotch tape.
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Pin the flexible cable connector located under the LL-SPA3 board.
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It’s easier to do it using a pin whose tip is bent like this picture.
Insert the tip of the pin into the bottom of the connector’s pins from the side, and pin them by circling the axis of the pin.
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Using tweezers and keeping the LL-SPA3 board at an angle like in this picture, install the flexible cable lightly onto the connector. If you press hard, the reinforcing plate on the tip of the flexible cable could bend and cause a break. So be careful with this.
When you install the tip of the flexible cable, pin the pins of the connector with tweezers. When you pull the flexible cable lightly with tweezers and it doesn’t come out, it’s fine.
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After this, we will do the installation with the LL-SPA board attached to the LL board.
If you attempt to pull the LL-SPA board from the LL board, it could put pressure on the flexible cable attached to the slidepad, which could cause a break.
If you take out the slidepad, pull out the flexible cable after unpinning the flexible cable connector with a pin or tool.

<Wiring of the power supply>
Before putting the LL board back in the case, connect the flexible cable to the power supply.
The connection point will be a chip capacitor like the picture below. First, put the extra thin thread solder over the edge of the chip capacitor. Then bring the wiring close to the edge of the capacitor with tweezers, and put the soldering iron over it.
Please make sure that the red wire is +1.8V and the white wire is GND.
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<Installation on the chassis>
Put the LL main board into the chassis.
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Warning: The LL-SPA3 board is as slim as 0.4mm, and the wiring pattern on the board is thin, please do not put strong pressure on the board.
Depending on the method of installing the flexible cable or differences in the size of the boards, you may additionally need to whittle away part of the chassis or the bottom of the IR module.
When you close the chassis of the LL board, start from the upper part (where the L and R buttons are located) in order not to put pressure on the LL-SPA3 board.

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The parts of the strap holder will need to be installed later, so slide in the board after taking it out the chassis.

First, please make sure to install the flexible cable on the upper liquid crystal panel located on the backside of the LL main board.

When you install the flexible cable, pry up the pins of the connector with tweezers, and insert the flexible cable all the way in until the flexible cable becomes parallel against the connector, then pin them down.
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There is a flexible touch panel connector under the LL-SPA3 board. Picking up the LL-SPA3 board puts pressure on the flexible cable for the slidepad, so be careful with this.
While picking up the LL-SPA3 board at an angle, insert the flexible touch panel.
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Peel off the temporary scotch tape on the slidepad, and insert the LL-SPA3 board in the hole next to the game cartridge connector.
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Rarely, depending on each LL board, solder paste in order to fix the game cartridge connector is too much, and you cannot fix the board properly due to the LL-SPA3 board floating like the picture. In this case, use less solder paste using a solder sucker or so.
Depending on the LL board, sometimes there is too much solder paste holding the game cartridge connector and you can’t fit the LL-SPA3 board in properly due to it floating like in the picture. This is rare, but if it happens you can remove some of the solder paste with a solder sucker or something.
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Please make sure that the wireless switch on the LL board is fully off and fits properly. (It is very difficult to fix this later on.)
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Set the holes of the slidepad and the washer sheets properly, and screw them onto the slidepad. Please make sure the slidepad operates smoothly.
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If you are using the separate USB connector type, install the IR module on the board.
If the IR module touches the LL-SPA3 board, prune away the bottom of the IR module with a cutter.
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Once you have installed all the flexible cables, screw them onto the LL board.

In order to test the system before closing the chassis, run the LL while pressing the battery to the terminal with your hand.
Test everything on the LL main board. If you are using the combined USB type, it’s better to check the operation of the capture card by connecting the board to a PC at this point.
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<Processing the LL case (common procedure)>
It’s different to process the case between the combined USB and the separated USB types. So first, you should do a common procedure.
Processing the case is different for the combined USB and separate USB types, but they begin with a common procedure.

Remove a nub near the L button of the chassis that would touch the LL-SPA3 board. The left picture is before, and the right one is after the removal. Cut the whole nub using a nipper.
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Cut the battery guard on the bottom case as needed so it won’t touch the bottom of the LL-SPA3 board.
To preserve strength, cut the double wall parts and the reinforcement posts diagonally with a cutter so the LL-SPA3 board fits smoothly.
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<LL case process (Combined USB connector type)>
Remove the gray plastic part that supports the L button. It is fixed with three screws. Please be careful not to lose the L button’s springs when removing it.
Remove the USB connector. It should be cut with a nipper or cutter knife.
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Once these parts have been taken out, put the support part back.

The supporting nuts won’t be anchored at this point, so fix the LL’s power supply cover with scotch tape.
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Next, remove the black acrylic part that transmits the IR (infrared ray). This can be done by lifting up from the bottom part.
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That’s all for the procedure for the combined type case.

< LL case and USB wiring process (separate USB connector type)>
Remove the gray plastic part that supports the L button. It is fixed with three screws. Please be careful not to lose the L button’s springs when removing it.

Cut the part of the LL-SPA3 board that would interfere with the process.
The left picture is before removal, and the right one is after. It should be cut with a nipper or so.
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Put the supporting part back after the cut.

Next, process the case to place the USB connector.
It is difficult to install the microphone of the flexible cable after installing the USB connector, so the microphone needs to be installed beforehand.
Put the microphone of the LL on the board and fix it with scotch tape so it won’t bother you. Please be careful not to bend the microphone’s flexible cable.
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Make sure the point where you should cut (without taking off the double-faced tape) while placing the USB connector on the board.
Without taking off the double-faced tape, put the USB connector on the board and plan where you’re going to cut.

Cut and trim the case until a USB cable can be plugged in.
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Take off the double-faced tape on the bottom of the USB connector, and fix the USB connector. Fix the USB connector with a USB cable plugged in like in the picture, this keeps it the USB connector from bending.
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The strap holder on the right side will interfere with the USB connector, so cut part of it.
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Wire the USB connector.
This soldering work is to be done in a very narrow space, so work it holding the soldering iron vertically. (If you hold it horizontally, the tip of the soldering iron would touch the plastic part of the LL main board chassis and it would melt. )

The wiring on a USB connector is bad in soldering, and it could easily cause a soldering failure. So make sure to paste some flux on the tip of the wire, and do pre-solder beforehand.
The wiring on a USB connector is difficult to solder, and the solder could easily fail. Make sure to paste some flux on the tip of the wire, and do some pre-soldering beforehand.

Here’s the wiring of the USB connector.
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In the wiring of the LL-SPA3, the soldering part is to be done right above of the flexible cable of the touch panel and the USB connector, so please make sure to solder with the LL-SPA3 board being a little float. (Without a floating the baord, it would melt the flexible cable of the touch panel or connector.)
Make it float as much as the LL-SPA3 won’t be taken out like in the picture.
The soldering work is done right above the flexible cable of the touch panel and USB connector, so let the LL-SPA3 board float a little or the soldering iron will melt the flexible cable. Raise the LL-SPA3 board level with the case, but don’t take it out past that, like in the picture.
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This is the wiring.
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At this point, you can test the capture card by connecting it to a PC.

It would cause a problem if the USB wiring got stuck between the LL board and the case, so fix it in a few places with scotch tape like the picture.
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Cut off part of the back-cover (inner cover) where the USB connector would touch.
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Cut off part of the back-cover (outer cover) with a cutter too.
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<Test the viewer software>
We provide the link to download the driver only to those who have purchased Video Capture Kits from our site: http://www.3dsvideocapture.com.

Run the viewer software after installing the device driver compatible with your version of Windows (32 bit or 64 bit).
When you first run the viewer software, it requires a product key. Input the product key that we gave you on a sheet of paper.

<Troubleshooting>

Symptom

Cause and fix

Does not run when the game console is powered on. Failure of the wiring to the Wi-Fi module.
The power supply that you wired may have shorted out.
The display of both the game console and viewer have noise or wrong colors. There may be soldering spikes on the LL-SPA3 flexible cable, and it could have shorted out part of the liquid crystal display panel.
The display of the game console is fine but the colors of the viewer are wrong. It could be a soldering failure in the LL-SPA3 flexible cable.
It isn’t recognized as a USB device. (It doesn’t require a driver installation). If you are using the separate USB connector type, the wiring of the USB connector may be interfering with either the game cartridge connector or some other part of the LL main board. Please check the wiring again.
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