How to officially assemble the 3DS Nisetoro Capture! Debut!
This procedure is how to install the flexible cable used with Nisetoro Capture kits.
The soldering of the kits is difficult. Even an experienced person could fail. A 20W soldering iron and industrial-level soldering iron are essential. If the work isn’t good enough, the kit won’t be able to display with 60fps. Special tools are necessary in order to disassemble the game console and reprocess the case attractively. If you are new to electrical work, you should be sure to ask the production agency. It is fairly difficult. To be honest, there are many people who came crying to us for help.
You’ll get free assembly for now if you buy a kit from us. Leave a comment, “Plus Assembly service for free!”
We do not take any responsibility for any result of your work by following this procedure.
If your game console is changed or remodeled, you will void your warranty. Depending on the revision of the game console, this procedure may not work.
<Things included in kits>
Nisetoro Capture Kit
Power supply wiring (10cm, 8cm), stripped (Solderable as it is)
Sound wiring (11cm x 3)
Commercial Industrial use lead-free solder (30cm)
A license key for the Viewer software
<Tools you need>
Soldering iron (around 20W)
Soldering iron tester
No-clean flux (use is essential as the solder could bridge easily)
Tools to make a hole such as ultrasonic wave cutter, hand drill, cutter knife, etc
<Cut the flexible cable>
Cut off the flexible cable along the white line.
<Disassemble the game console>
Before disassembling the game console, you should take off all your clothes. This will avoid damaging the board with static electricity. If you use a protective sheet, get your body wet a bit. This will protect your body from dust.
Before installing the flexible cable, you need to take apart the game console. Since the parts are very small, please be careful not to lose the screws. Each screw has its own position to screw into. The connector can be easy to break, so please take cautious steps. If the connector is broken, it can’t be fixed. And the console repair will be expensive (it will cost over 10,000 JPN (over $100 USD) due to the replacement of the main board). Please refer to ifixit for more about how to disassemble a game console.
First off, take off the four screws on the bottom case like in the picture below.
Then, unscrew the inside cover.
When lifting the inside cover be careful not to break the flexible cable for the L and R buttons.
Make a hole for the flexible cable with an ultrasonic wave cutter. In case you fail, please make a hole enough size for the board.
Remove every screw, then the voice microphone, SD card slot, wireless board, and analog stick, then remove the board. If the connector is damaged when you take it apart, it won’t be able to be repaired. Please go slow. The connector is not exchangeable.
<Install the flexible cable on the game board>
I created a new flexible cable. Its voltage is more stable, and includes 1.8V, GND, and sound wires.
Without moving the flexible cable, solder it to the board. Be careful when soldering. If the cable moves any while soldering, it won’t work afterwards. Wire the GND and voice terminal wires like the picture above. If you take GND to other than the part on the picture, it won’t be able to do 60fps. If the wire is too thin, it will cause noise.
<Put back the board>
Put the board back like in the picture. Please be careful around the circle pad because it’s easy to break. Wire the 1.8V line to the capacitor. You don’t need to do this work with the new version.
<Put back the back cover>
Take out the flexible cable, the sound, and 1.8V line through the hole you made. Screw up all the screws. Check the power before going on to the next step. If you can’t power up, make sure the power cable is connected properly.
<Soldering the board>
Put the flexible cable on the board, then solder it directly.
Fill in the holes of the terminal spots for the flexible cable with a soldering iron beforehand. If you use a lot of solder on a spot, it could damage the board due to a solder bridge or short circuit. Be sure to solder properly like the picture above.
After they are temporarily joined, solder the terminals one by one. Solder them from bottom right to upper left while pressing the flexible cable in order to keep the board from floating. If the cable slips or you solder a bridge, it won’t be able to do 60fps. If it’s not 60fps, it’s possible that the soldering failed. It’s a waste of time to measure resistance values with a soldering tester. Just remove the solder with a desoldering tool and do it again. There is no point if the next spot has a soldering bridge.
At the end, solder 1.8V and the three sound wires directly to the board. Find the spot to solder based on the length of the wire for power, and the color of the wire for sound.
First, put on the clothes that you took off.
Now put in the battery and check if your game console works properly. After confirming the console works properly, connect the console to your PC with a USB cable and start the viewer software. (We’ll only give the license key to customers who have purchased the kits from us).
<Add to the chassis>
Fit the board into the chassis using the special cover like in the picture. Although covers for the battery are sold by other companies, the price is very expensive because they worry if only their covers are sold and a large amount of stock is left out. (At first it was 1,800 yen (around $18 USD), and it became 5,000 yen (around $50 USD)).
Good luck with the assembly!
<Cases of trouble and measures>
Q. It won’t run even though the power to the game console is on.
A. The Wi-Fi module connection could have failed, or the wiring has shorted out the power. Another case could be the cable is disconnected.
Q. The game console works fine, but there is noise or no display on the lower screen.
A. Adjust the timing for capturing data on the lower display with the viewer controls.
Q. The display of the viewer and/or the display of the game console have noise or a wrong color tone.
A. A soldering bridge could have formed between the board and the flexible cable. Check if there are any soldering bridges with a loupe, and put some flux and solder it. It is a waste of time to try finding the problem with a soldering tester.
Q. The display of the game console works fine, but the viewer tone is wrong.
A. It could be bad soldering (such as untouched soldering) between the board and the flexible cable, or a soldering leak between the game console and the flexible cable, or a solder defect.
Q. After tightening the screws on the console cover, the display of the game is distorted or the tone of the display is wrong.
A. On the side facing the game console, there is a sharp protrusion on the soldered part of the flexible cable. It could be causing a short with the metal part of the liquid crystal panel.
Q. The display of the viewer is fine, but the display of the game console is distorted.
A. The tolerance of the liquid crystal panel is low, and it cannot recognize the signal properly due to the installation of the Nisetoro kit. It happens about 1% (1 kit per 100 kits).
Q. When a PC is not connected, the upper display of the game console is distorted (synchronization signal is off).
A. It’s possible that this can be solved by pulling up the +1.8V (#1d) line with 2.2K ohm on each of #4b, #4c, #4d, and #4e on the side of the main board.
If you are saying. “I can’t do it! Help me!” Then, visit our office in Akihabara. You may be able to make it happen.